XU MIAMI

Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Stories clothing name


"...Many thing are called by the names of persons who were not inventors at all. Sometimes a new kind of clothing is called after some great person just to make it seen distinguished" _ The book: Stories that words tell us - 110p



Chesterfield overcoat



A 1901 fashion plate of the new Chesterfield


"The Chesterfield has no horizontal seam or sidebodies, but can still somewhat shaped using the side seam & darts. 

It can be single or double breasted, and has been popular in a wide variety of fabrics, typically heavier weight tweeds, or charcoal & navy, and even the camel hair classic. It has often been made with a velvet collar. 

It was a staple of smarly dressed men's wardrobes from the 
1920s to 1960s" _ from Wikipedia

A chesterfield overcoat is called by the tailor who first gave this kind of coat. Because they wished to suggest that this coat had all the elegance displayed in the clothing of the famous eighteens century dandy, the 14th Eart of Chesterfield. 






Raglan Sleeve

Portrait of Lord Fitzroy James Henry Somerset, 1st Baron Raglan (1788-1855), half-length, in military uniform, a plumed hat under his left arm

"A raglan sleeve is a type of sleeve whose distinguishing characteristic is to extend in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underfrarm to collarbone" _ from wikipedia 

 


It's named after Lord FritzRoy James Henry Somerset, 1st baron Raglan, who is said to have worn this style of coat after the loss of his arm in the Battle of Warterloo.
 





Bloomer Costume




 "Amelia Jenks Bloomer (May 27, 1818 – December 30, 1894) was an Ameriacan women's right and temperance advocate.Even though she did not create the women's clothing reform style known as Bloomers, her name became associated with it because of her early and strong advocacy."


1850s fashion bloomers
 The Bloomer costume were popularized by Amelia Jenks Bloomer in the early 1850s( hence the name, shorting of "bloomer suit")

They were long baggy pants narrowing to a cuff at the ankles (worn below skirt), intended to preserve Victorian decency while being less of a handrance to women's activities than the long full skirts od the period ( the period of Victorian dress) 

They were worn by a few women in 1850s, but were  widely ridiculed in the press, and failed to become commontly accepted (1850s in fashion)

 



In 1990, fashion designer Paul Poiret attempted to popularize harem pants worn below a long flaring tunic, but this attempted revival of fashion bloomers under another name didn't catch on. 


    Paul Poiret - Harem Pants 1911       
Paul Poiret - Harem Pants 1903



  



























Garibaldi Shirt
A Garibaldi shirt (also called "Garibaldi jacket") was a woman's fashion, a red wool skirt and a loose  high-necked blouse with long sleeves named after an Italian patriot and folk hero Giuseppe Garibaldi(1807-1882 first popularized in 1960. 





According to a brief history of the shirt was written in 1902, the fashion for the Garibaldi shirt was initiated by the Empress Eugénie of France. Its first mention is in 1860 but it was extremely popular during the first haft of the 1860s. Versions in white and lighter fabrics also appeared, and children frequently wore it. 

Garibaldi, in a popular colour lithograph



During the Expedition of the Thousand campaign in 1860, Garibaldi's volunteer followers were known as "Redshirts"( Camicie Rosse in Italian) for their uniforms (or rather shirts, as they could not afford full uniforms), and it is these who inspired the fashion. 


  



Wellington and Blucher Boots

A pair of Wellington boots
A wellington boots is worn by
the Household cavalry, British Army, 2010


The Duke of Wellington at Waterloo. By James Lonsdale, 1815. He is said to be wearing here the boots of his own design, the Wellington



"The Duke of Wellington was not the only commander at the Battle of Waterloo to be commemorated in footwear. His Prussian ally, Marshall Blucher, also rates a mention in this 1920s mail order catalogue produced by the Scottish Wholesale Specialty Co, which operated from Holm Street.
 The company also produced a Napoleon clog, which was similar in design to the Wellington clog. The Blucher and Derby clogs for working men are illustrated here. How useful a half-watertight clog would be in the west of Scotland's notoriously wet climate is open to doubt."


Reference: Mitchell Library, GC 685.31 SCO
Reproduced with the permission of Glasgow City Council, Libraries Information and Learning


Featured on: Waterloo campaign







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